Style Guide – The Bespoke Paper Pattern
Cutting a bespoke paper pattern is the foundation stage of making a bespoke suit. During their initial consultation our client’s have an extensive set of body measurements taken and recorded. Our cutters then translate these measurements to construct a flat bespoke paper pattern consisting of a number of panels. This paper pattern is laid out over the client’s cloth of choice and is used to ‘strike’ the cloth. Put simply, ‘striking’ is the process by which the cutter marks out the shape of each paper pattern panel onto the cloth, using tailor’s chalk.
After ‘striking’, the cloth panels are cut-out by our cutters before being passed to our coat makers. A coat maker is responsible for making up the rough shape or ‘baste’ of a garment. It is this baste that will be tried on by the client at their first ‘baste fitting’. Tweaks to the fit of the garment are made at this stage which are then noted and transferred to the original bespoke pattern, ensuring the best possible fit on this and all future garments. It is this process that makes each bespoke garment truly individual and unique.
Being a cutter requires a huge amount of skill and training, taking approximately 5 years for one of our Savile Row apprentice cutters to become a fully fledged cutter, a further 5 years to become accomplished at the job, and 5 more to be recognised as a master craftsman. Traditionally with Savile Row tailors, each cutter has a house style to which they adhere but here at Cad & The Dandy we take a more modern approach, giving our client’s a combination of the look they want to achieve along with our expert advice on what will enhance their natural stature and silhouette.