Having added unstructured jackets to our custom tailored repertoire, we’ve provided a break down below detailing how this differs to our existing jackets, with a focus on the shoulders.

The Classic Shoulder

The classic British shoulder is very forgiving, giving solid structure and an elegant look. It’s great for balancing the shoulders and hiding any physical imperfections. These would include having dropped, forward or rounded shoulders.

Definitely a more formal shoulder, it has featured heavily in military uniforms, classic tuxedos and morning suits over the years.

The Soft Shoulder

Most modern suits are cut with soft shoulders. These give a more natural shoulder line with a bit of padding to give some structure.

Slightly less formal than the Classic shoulder, this is a good option for sports jackets, overcoats, business suits and more contemporary formalwear, such as tuxedos and morning suits.

The Unstructured Shoulder

Originating from the Italian Neopolitan style of tailoring, the unstructured shoulder is the most casual choice of the three. A great option for lightweight summer jackets and for applying a more contemporary feel to everyday business suits.

The structure of this cut has no padding and limited canvassing around the shoulder and chest, with none through the body. All of this combines to give a lighter, more casual look. A little less forgiving than our more structured options, it follows the natural line of the shoulders exactly.

The Unstructured Make

Our unstructured jackets are cut with patch pockets as standard, avoiding having internal pocket bags on show. They are also unlined with simple piping details around the edges to give a clean finish.

The safari jacket shown in the image above is one of our custom tailored separates that illustrates the unstructured shoulder really well.

To find out more about our custom tailoring styles, book a consultation with one of our tailors in New York, London or Stockholm.

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